Common Disposal Problems We Diagnose
- Humming but not turning: Usually a jam. Sometimes a quick reset and free-spin fixes it. If the motor hums and we cannot free it, the disposal is done.
- Will not power on at all: Could be the reset button (try first), the outlet, the switch, or the disposal motor. We diagnose.
- Leaking from underneath: Often a failed seal between the grinding chamber and the motor housing. Almost always means replacement.
- Leaking from where it connects to the sink (top): Mounting flange seal or sink-strainer assembly. Repairable.
- Leaking from the discharge: Discharge tube or the dishwasher inlet plug. Repairable.
- Noisy or rattling: Loose impellers, foreign object stuck inside, or the unit is failing. We can identify which.
- Slow drainage from the sink: Often a partial clog past the disposal, not the disposal itself. Sometimes a drain cleaning issue.
- Rotten smell: Food buildup. Usually fixable with a deep clean, not a replacement.
Repair or Replace
Disposals are not designed to last forever. Honest replacement triggers:
- Leak from between the grinding chamber and motor housing (housing seal failure)
- Motor that hums but is fully seized and cannot be freed
- Severe rust or pitting in the grinding chamber
- Disposal that's 12+ years old and has multiple ongoing issues
- Underpowered unit struggling with the household's normal use (upgrade to higher HP often makes sense)
If your disposal is 5 years old, mounted well, and just needs the reset, an unjam, or a new mounting flange, repair is the right call.
Sizing the Right HP
- 1/3 HP: Light residential. Bottom-tier units often included in builder-grade installs. Underpowered for most households.
- 1/2 HP: Standard residential. Adequate for typical kitchen use.
- 3/4 HP: Recommended residential. Handles most household loads, quieter, longer service life. Our usual recommendation.
- 1 HP: Heavy residential or light commercial. Larger families, lots of cooking, harder material handling.
What's Included in an Install
- Old disposal removal and disposal
- Inspection of mounting flange, sink connection, and drain assembly
- New disposal installed with new mounting hardware where needed
- Drain connection (and dishwasher inlet plug if dishwasher is connected)
- Power connection (cord or hardwire as required)
- Test for leaks and proper operation
- Walk you through reset button location, what not to put down, and basic care
Disposal or Drain Problem?
Sometimes the disposal is not the problem. A jammed or failed disposal is one issue. A slow sink after the disposal runs is often a drain issue past the disposal. We check both before quoting so you are not replacing a disposal when the kitchen drain is actually clogged.
What's Included — and What's Not
We handle the disposal install, the sink-side connection, the drain connection, and the dishwasher inlet plug. Electrical switch, outlet, or dedicated circuit repairs are by others unless specifically included in the written scope. If the unit will not power on and the issue is on the electrical side, we tell you so you can call an electrician.
What Not to Put in a Disposal
Quick list to extend disposal life:
- Cooking grease and oil (poured down a disposal cools and cakes the line past it)
- Coffee grounds (build up like sediment)
- Eggshells (can harden and stick)
- Pasta and rice (expand and clog)
- Fibrous vegetables: celery, asparagus, corn husks (wrap around impellers)
- Large bones, fruit pits, anything you wouldn't bite into
What It Costs
Repair pricing is flat-rate and depends on the failure. Replacement pricing depends on the unit (HP and brand) and whether you supply or we do. We tell you the total before any work starts. Free estimate. No trip charge.